THE QUICK AND DIRTY GUIDE TO TREKKING IN DERGE

[Version 1.1]

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GETTING TO DERGE

Three ways:

1. By bus from Kangding. Buses leave on odd days (1st, 3rd, 5th etc of every month) from the Kangding bus station. The journey lasts 2-3 days depending on road conditions, with possible overnight stops in Dawu, Luhuo (Trango), or Ganzi (Garze). In most places you can stay at the transit depot guest house, however in Ganzi they will require you to go across town to the government guest house.

2. Hire a car. At present there is no easy way for foreigners to do this in Kangding, but you can contact Kham Aid Foundation office director Mr Wu Bangfu by email at wubangfu@khamaid.org or telephone (0836) 283-1364 for advice (he speaks English). He can also help you book a vehicle in Derge for excursions away from the county town, to starting points for various treks.

3. Hitchhike. This is entirely feasible, but not especially recommended on account of safety considerations. We have not heard of any foreigners being harmed while hitchhiking in China, but locals tell us that there are some bad people out there, so we suggest using public buses whenever possible.

Suggested stopover: Dargye Monastery Deshi Hotspring Guest House in Rongbatsa, Ganzi County.

Places to stay in Derge. At present there is only one hotel where foreigners are allowed to stay, the Derge Binguan. It has clean rooms, no attached bathrooms, a shower that is available evenings, and a restaurant.

THINGS TO DO IN DERGE TOWN (Elev: 3220 meters. See map)

1. See the Derge Printing House. Currently, admission is 50 yuan and worth it. They have an informative English brochure. Wander among the stacks of 270,000 plate blocks, and watch workers hand print Tibetan Buddhist sutas. They have a shop across the street where you can buy books and other things.

2. Visit the temple of Tongtong Gyalpo, a small, old place that was not damaged during the Cultural Revolution, and therefore retains its original murals and objects. It is named after a famous Tibetan engineer who built many bridges and other structures, including the Luding Bridge, which you may have seen on the way from Chengdu to Kangding.

3. Visit Gengqing Monastery, a newly rebuilt, large, and very active Sakya Sect monastery.

4. Visit the Tibetan Medicine Hospital and Factory. Here they combine herbs and other materials gathered from all over the Tibetan plateau and India to make traditional Tibetan medicines.

5. Day hike to Nyengtok Peak .
This is an all-day strenuous adventure, but a rewarding one as you can see for miles around from the top of this sacred mountain. We're not sure of its height but we think it's between 4500 and 5200 meters above sea level. The total time of our test hike was 11 hours. You can find the trailhead by walking west (southwest, actually) along the highway until you come to a brick factory on the right, just outside of town. Climb up the hill where they have been excavating clay for bricks, and continue up the very steep trail. After about an hour it will flatten out slightly and bend left to pass by some houses. If you are doing this as a day hike, then you should make the summit your goal, not the circumbulating trails, both of which take more than one day to complete. The routes are tricky, so we suggest hiring a guide for 30-40 yuan. The Printing House Shop can find a guide for you, or just ask around at villages you see during the first hour of walking.

6. Other hikes.
Go past Gengqing Monastery up-valley. Not far from the town on the left side of the valley is a well-used trail that doubles back, going above the town. Continuing on this trail takes you high along a ridge that parallels the Sichuan-Tibet highway, where you will have splendid views of the town and surrounding area. Locals say that this trail leads eventually to villages high up on the mountainside, and probably a lot further.

HIRING VEHICLES IN DERGE

Here are three places we know of where you can ask about vehicles (usually jeeps) to surrounding areas or neighboring counties. (Note: nobody here speaks English; bring along a phrasebook or a Tibetan- or Chinese-speaking friend):

1. The Derge Printing House Shop.

2. Public Security Bureau, Foreign Affairs Office. This office is staffed by two very nice Tibetan guys, Buge and Dendawa. Their office is in the Public Security building, on the second floor, at the end of the hall. Their office telephone number is 22040. Buge's home number is 22823.

3. Director Malu, at the Derge Religous Affairs Office. He is located in the pink government building (see map), first floor, first office on the right. He is especially helpful if you're going to Galen, which is his home village. His work phone number is 22383 and home is 22085.

TREKKING (See this county map. Caution: 1.2 MB of image on this page)

Guides.
In general, we recommend hiring a local person to guide you on these trails, both for the sake of safety and for route-finding, which can be tricky in these sparsely inhabited mountains. Expect to pay somewhere between 20 and 50 yuan per day.

Horses.
If you want to hire horses, ask at a village at the trailhead. Sometimes it takes a day for the people to fetch horses down from the highlands where they are pastured. The owners won't let you go without sending along a member of the family to guide you, take care of the animals, and bring them back home afterward. Customarily, hire is one-way, and you change transport at each overnight stop; expect to pay more for longer trips. This is because people are usually unwilling to travel more than one day from home. A good horse can carry one person and a modest amount of baggage. If you are a large Westerner with a 20 kg pack you might need an extra horse to carry it. You will need to bargain hard to get a good rate for horse hire. A good rate is anything less than 80 yuan (US$10) per horse per day.

Food.
Monasteries and homes can usually provide you with tsampa, butter, tea, and meat, but other foods (especially fresh fruits and vegetables) are often lacking. It would be wise to bring along additional supplies to vary your diet. To make tsampa palatable, we recommend adding sugar. You should have your own cup or bowl. Tibetans do not begin slaughtering yaks until mid-July so before then "meat" means either dried yak, pork, or possibly bacon.

Water.
You should drink treated boiled or filtered water only, even if it comes from a stream at a high elevation. The rare exception would be a spring, and even here it would be better not to take chances. Virtually all Tibetans routinely boil their water, so if someone offers you water for drinking, or tea, then it's probably safe. Bottled mineral water is available in a few shops around town.

Bedding.
If you don't have a sleeping bag, monasteries can provide thick quilts, in which case a sleeping bag liner offers protection from dirt. If you are staying in a private home, then it would be best to bring your own bedding because they might not have enough.

Trek 1. Anjihei to Babang.
Anjihei is a village, just off the Sichuan-Tibet highway going toward TAR. From Derge town, go toward TAR about 15 km by bus, hired car, or on foot. Get off where you see a large white chorten on the left side of the road, and a dirt road heading into the mountains. This road continues for some 5 km, passing several farm houses. One of the larger houses functions as an inn where travelers can stay overnight, and get help hiring horses and guides. Where the road ends, a well-used trail leads upward, eventually summitting two passes, Ngose La and Niwo La. The first is about 4700 meters, the second somewhat lower. Walking time is 7-10 hours. Carry at least two liters of water, as there is very little on the route.

At Babang (3855 m.)
Upon arrival, you should head immediately for Palpung Monastery (also called Babang), which is an unmistakeably colossal structure on a high bluff above the township headquarters. The monastery accepts overnight guests (go to the white part of the building), and can provide meals and other services, including horse and vehicle hire. Watch out for the dogs around Palpung. The monastery is currently (summer 1999) being refurbished and many carpenters are working on-site. Palpung is number two in the hierarchy of Karma Kagyu sect monasteries. It has one rinpoche, Ugyen Rinpoche, in residence; he's now about ten years old (in 1999). There is a printing house at Palpung and a number of interesting day-hikes in the neighborhood.

Trek 2. Derge to Babang.
It's possible to trek directly from Derge to Babang, a long route best done in two days, camping at a cluster of shephards' huts that lies about half way. This is a difficult route summitting four passes at 4700, 4750, 4750, and 4575 meters above sea level, with slight descents in between. The trail is not easy to find and there is little water in the first half.

By road to Babang.
Babang can be reached by car via a very roundabout route. In periods of heavy rain the road is often closed by mudslides. If you go by car, you will pass Baiya Monastery along the way. The drive from Derge takes about five hours.

Trek 3. Babang to Baiya.
This is very easy. Just follow the road downstream for about four hours to where a large bridge crosses from the right to the left bank, leading to a village of about ten houses and a large, new temple. You might succeed in hitchhiking here, as there is occasional traffic on the road when it's not blocked by mudslide. From Baiya you can continue a further 4 hours to the road beside the Jinsha Jiang where it's possible, with patience, to hitchhike to Derge or Baiyu (Pelyul).

At Baiya (3440 m.)
Behind the new temple is an old temple that accepts overnight guests. This temple houses the finest set of Buddhist murals remaining in western Sichuan since the widespread destruction of the Cultural Revolution. The paintings are 270 years old and cover more than 370 square meters. The are in excellent condition. Bring a flashlight (torch) along to view them. The style is typical of the region in that is shows Chinese influence. Above the monastery are some ruins of a fortress belonging to Nyesa Aden, a general of the legendary King Gesar. The reach the ruins walk up the valley on the trail between the barley fields and the mountain. When you are well past the ruins (now impossible to see), look for a trail snaking upward. Note: transcription of the monastery's Tibetan name gets you something like "Pewar" but local pronounciation is far more accurately represented by the spelling Baiya.

Trek 4. Baiya to Meisu.
From Baiya there is a little-used trail to Meisu that can be completed in one day. It starts with the logging road that runs past the monasery and up the tributary valley. The monastery can arrange horses/guides. The trail summits at one high pass (4615 m.). Alternatively, you can return to Babang and go to Meisu from there on a much better trail.

Trek 5. Babang to Meisu.
This is a well-used trail that takes 7-9 hours to walk. It crosses one high pass, Ha La (4355 m.). Not long ago a couple of locals were killed by a bear in this neighborhood, so be extremely cautious of any bears you see. Water is relatively plentiful on this route.

In Meisu (3600 m.)
This is the district capital. Here you can stay in the prominent and impressive Dzongsar Monastery, which sits on a hill over- looking the village. This is a really lovely place, very clean, with plenty of virgin forest in surrounding valleys, and great hiking.

By road to Meisu.
Meisu can be reached by road from the Jinsha Jiang, a journey of about 6 hours from Derge or 3 from Babang. If you hitchhike on the road that follows the Jinsha Jiang, you can reach the turnoff to Meisu but it's unlikely you will find a ride to Meisu from here because there is almost no traffic. The distance from the juncture to Meisu is 40 km. If you are in Meisu and want to get out by car, first ask around, and if you fail to find something, the monastery can summon a jeep from Derge to take you back to Derge or south to Baiyu (Pelyul).

The Dopu Valley
This is a really spectacular area reachable by trekking one day from Meisu. It's really too far for a day hike unless you can get a ride on the motorable road to the trailhead. The trailhead is located about 15 km upriver where there is a large bridge and a smaller river coming down from the right side--the opening to the Dopu Valley. There is a village here. (If you come to a large mani wall right next to a grain drying rack, you've gone too far). From the trailhead, walking a further 6-10 km will bring you to a place of sheer rock cliffs, a splendid view of the snow-covered Qiao'er Range, wide pastures, virgin forest, and a river flowing blue and red water. There are many small lakes a little further up. Dzongsar Monastery can arrange an overnight horse trip to this place, complete with Tibetan tent, bedding, and food.

Trek 6. Dopu to Maniganggo (3760 m.)
The people at Dzongsar tell us that you can continue through the Dopu Valley and reach Maniganggo in one more day. We haven't confirmed this. The trail goes over the Qiao'er Range, and is therefore probably quite high and difficult. The monastery can help you arrange guides/horses.

Trek 7. Meisu to Manchen Monastery
We've also heard that if you continue straight along the river from Meisu, without turning into the Dopu Valley, you can reach Manchen Monastery. This place lies along the main Sichuan-Tibet highway, on the west side of Tro La (Qiao'er) Pass.

Other treks from Meisu.
From the map it appears possible to trek south to destinations in Baiyu (Pelyul) County such as Gartok Monastery in Hebo.

Trek 8. Galen to Dzogchen.
From Derge Town catch a bus east to the township of Keluodong, 22 km away. Just west of Keluodong is an opening on the north (other) side of the river with a bridge across the river leading to a dirt road that snakes up into the mountains. Follow this road 7 km to Galen (also called Seba). Or, save yourself some time by hiring a car in Derge to take you all the way to Galen. In Galen there is a village and a monastery. Malu, who is head of the Religous Affairs Bureau in Derge (see: hiring a car in Derge), is from this village and is setting up a guest house in his home there. Galen is the home village of Namkhai Norbu, a prominent rinpoche now residing in Italy. From Galen it's said you can reach Dzogchen in one day, which looks to be rather a long one. Ask Malu or villagers to arrange a guide and horses. Start by continuing up the valley to a place called Lalukou where the trail forks. Take the right fork. You will cross three passes, of which only the first is significant at 4813 meters.

At Dzogchen (3900 m.)
There is a large Nyingma Sect monastery here and a Buddhist college which lies up-valley of the monastery and is marked a large gaudy gate. Try asking for lodgings at the college. Down-valley is the township headquarters with some small shops, government headquarters (with a telephone), and a very limited clinic run on a volunteer basis by the vivacious Dorje Tso, who has retired from her job at the Derge County hospital. From the town walk a further 1 km to the Sichuan-Qinghai highway where you can catch a bus or hitch. Out here you might have to wait 2-3 days to catch a bus in the direction of your choice. Ask around to find out when the next one is due. They say you can walk to Shechen Monastery from here in one day, and most likely the trail follows the road for at least part of the way. You can hire horses in Dzogchen, or possibly a vehicle.

Trek 9. Galen to Ngozi
Start out at Galen as in Trek 8, but at Lalukou take the left fork to reach Ngola after one further day. From Ngola continue NW to where the trail eventually meets a road, close to Ngozi Monastery. There are two other monasteries here as well.

GETTING OUT OF DERGE

Buses to Kangding depart from Derge Town on odd days at 7am. Buses to Jomda (Jiangda) depart on odd days at 9am, assuming the bus managed to make it it from Kangding the night before. These are public buses departing from the bus station. There is privately operated service to Keluodong and Gangtok (in TAR) which operate at the whim of the vehicle owners.

There is no regular service to Baiyu (Pelyul) however passenger-carrying trucks are seen almost every day along the road that follows the Jinsha Jiang.

As far as we know, it's still technically illegal to travel to Lhasa from here without a special permit that is obtained by hiring the services of a travel agency. There is such a travel agency in Chamdo and you could (theoretically, anyway) contact them from Derge and arrange to have a car come and pick you up. Probably your best helpers in this process would be the guys at Derge Public Security. If you're planning to do the trip illegally, however, definitely do not contact these guys as it is their job to prevent you.

After your trip, please leave an entry in our on-line rumor book to tell others about your experiences.